The Thrill of a Diner

Breakfast at El Mar

For all of my excitement over Italian cooking (and all Mediterranean cooking) I literally get a thrill when I’m sitting in a booth perusing a diner menu.

I grew up with the cooking of my Mom, dishes that were decidedly Italian, but the American side of my palate swoons for diner food.

The diners I knew in NY were often run by Greek-Americans, so in addition to eggs/sandwiches/salads/platters/burgers/etc., the menu sang with fabulous Greek dishes (which I loved), spanakopita, moussaka, pastitsio, souvlaki– what a great combo menu!

On a recent visit to Florida, to hang out with Duane’s brother Kurt (who lives in Fort Lauderdale), we dreamed of returning to El Mar diner. This cozy diner run by two sisters is perfection. How a plate of their eggs and home fries can light up the taste buds.

In Nashville, Wendell Simth’s (known as a meat ‘n three) fills the diner yearning with their complete menu. And so does Noshville, who puts a Jewish deli spin on diner. And then there’s Brown’s Diner, of course! It’s where Duane & I play music as “Duette.” Brown’s wasn’t exactly a diner, more a bar with burgers, until just recently. Now it has the full diner menu. Perfect.

Wendell Smith’s

 

 

 

Duette at Brown’s Diner

Noshville’s Matzah Ball Soup

People often ask me where are my favorite places to eat. I think because I’m a chef they’re expecting me to name the top best chef restaurants in Nashville or New York. My wheels start spinning trying to think of an answer. Sure, I love a bunch of chef-driven places, but the soul of my desire just wants to go to a cook-driven diner!

Fav Nashville Eats: Wendell Smith’s

Wendell Smith's

Wendell Smith’s

If a place has some character, serves good food (read: GOOD food…not necessarily complicated food, but GOOD), and the prices are reasonable…it gets my attention. Sure I love to sample what chefs create, but if I’m not in a sampling mood and just want something comfy and consistent and in an atmosphere where I relax easily…then I go to the ole reliables.

I lived in NYC for many years and one of my all-time favorite reliables was the local diner. Any one of them!

Malibu Diner in NYC

Malibu Diner in NYC

NY diners are usually run by Greeks with a menu that includes some Greek specialties, but the big draw for me was the all-day/all-night breakfast. Sure they had classic sandwiches, big burgers, a zillion salads, sometimes even lobster tails, steak, plus a lit-up carousel filled with mile-high cakes and pies (these I never ordered) (too much sweet for my timid sweet tooth). Gimme the eggs; I want the home fries.

Here in Nashville, diners aren’t on every other corner like they (used to be) in NYC (even there, they’re disappearing). But I’ve happily connected to 3 restaurants that do the diner thing and THEN SOME.

Today I’ll just start with one. Wendell Smith’s. To say I’ve discovered Wendell Smith’s just goes to show you what a Nashville greenhorn I am. When you walk into Wendell Smith’s for the first time you realize everyone in there has been going for YEARS. That maiden visit I almost felt like an intruder. But they greet you friendly enough. And now Wendell’s tickles me every time I walk in their door.

From what I understand the restaurant started in the 1950’s. The place still looks like the 1950’s including some wear and tear from the passage of decades. But that’s all added charm.

Wendell's menus

Wendell’s menus

It used to have a drive-up window that they closed in to add more tables. A friend’s mom and dad met at that drive-up window years ago!

Wendell’s is not necessarily known for its breakfast food. It’s a meat and 3 with a changing daily menu. Their permanent menu has the eggs and omelets, burgers, and sandwiches, and things like tuna-stuffed tomato.

Wendell's cheeseburger

Wendell’s bacon cheeseburger

But I’ve got my favorite breakfast dish and order it almost every time: 2 eggs, scrambled soft, home fries, and sliced tomatoes. (Okay, occasionally I get the cheese omelet.)

Wendell's eggs, tomatoes, home fries

Wendell’s eggs, tomatoes, home fries

Wendell’s is big on tomatoes. They ALWAYS  have big, ripe fresh tomatoes on hand. And they sell them by the pound, too.

Local tomatoes by the pound

Local tomatoes by the pound at Wendell’s

On some days they have Polish Sausage on the meat and 3 menu. Duane will always order that. And if their yumfest fried chicken is on the menu I’ll skip my breakfast for that. I also LOVE their turnip greens.

Meat & 2

Meat & 2

Meat & 3 Menu

Meat & 3 Menu

The place gets packed at lunch (when I seem to usually have breakfast) but each time we go there’s a booth available.

Wendell's at lunchtime

Wendell’s at lunchtime

ADDED BONUS: Wendell’s waitresses are the best in town. Serious career waitresses. They already know what we’re gonna order. And we love that feeling of being regulars.

Wendell Smith’s is true Nashville.

Wendell's is Open

Wendell’s is Open

Wendell's

Wendell’s