Here’s a virtual visit to the city of canals, mystery, art, history, architecture, beauty, and fabulous food.
A compilation of some of my photos and videos from my visits to Venezia.
Take the trip with me!
Italy travel
How They Make Parmigiano in Parma
parmigiano reggiano
On my recent trip to Parma, Italy — with a wonderful group of food enthusiast travelers — we got to see up close and first-hand how true parmigiano reggiano is made.
my group at the parmigiano reggiano factory
Parmesan is not parmigiano reggiano. Only the cheese made in the region of Emilia, in Parma, from very special cows, and stamped parmigiano reggiano is the real thing.
We witnessed the new milk, delivered that morning, swirling in huge heated copper vats.
After rennet is added, just a couple of hours later, the workmen pull a 200-lb. ball of cheese from the whey.
They cut that huge wad of goodness in two. And each of those halves (100 lbs. each) becomes a wheel of parmigiano.
At first it sits in a plastic form, with a band surrounding it to imprint (like brail) the name parmigiano reggiano, and the number representing this particular facility/manufacturer.
Then it goes into a curved form, gets submerged in brined water for some days. And then left to dry and age for no less than 12 months.
parmigiano reggiano
At the end of the tour, we tasted the 12-month, 24-month, and 30-month cheese. Of course, we bought some to bring home. Prices from this manufacturer were so modest. After all, we were right there– right there where they made the cheese. In the beautiful countryside of Parma.
Parma Countryside
Our guide had just recently gained access to this facility. So our tour felt super-exclusive. If you are ever in the area do look up Stefania Bertaccini. She knows all about Parma’s wonderful products, can guide you on tours, and host/teach fabulous cooking classes.
Secret Charming Fountain: Amalfi
Secret Charming Fountain in Amalfi
Did you say it’s time to go to the Amalfi Coast? Hang on, let me get my hat!
Amalfi Coast
There is NOTHING like the Amalfi Coast. Beautiful towns balancing on dramatic cliffs, food from the sea, abundance of lemons, bougainvillea spilling everywhere, and the welcoming, warm citizens of Campania. NOTHING like it.
The jewel, and title town of the Coast, is Amalfi.
Amalfi
Amalfi
It’s a small town, lusciously sprawling down a long, lovely main street, which leads from the beach, past the cathedral, to the teetering white-washed inviting architecture. Every step of the way you find beauty, culture, restaurants, coffee bars, and shops.
Amalfi
Amalfi
Amalfi
Keep walking deep into the town, toward the end of the main street — till you think: “well, I guess that was the last shop” — that’s when you’ll find the secret charming fountain. It’s originally meant to represent a nativity scene, but over the years, there seems to have been many added figures. Hills & cliffs, with tableaux of shepherds, and sweethearts, craftspeople, working people, and beautiful maidens.
It’s also a drinking fountain open to the public for free refreshment. Take a sip. Hang out and make friends with all the little people (and sheep), read the stories they tell & take home an extraordinary experience.
And then (why not?) stop into a cafe for some prosciutto & melon. (Soooo good!)
prosciutto & melon in Amalfi
Best Cooking Class in Venice
Piazza San Marco – Venice
Some people shy away from Venice. They say it’s too crowded…too many tourists.
There’s some truth to that.
But there’s more truth here: Venice is like NO OTHER PLACE. It’s a beautiful history captured in space and stopped in time. To go to Venice is to time travel. Back centuries. And centuries-old wonders have all been preserved.
If you want to avoid crowds, it’s easy to steer yourself off the beaten path and feel like the city is all yours. Intriguing and relaxing neighborhoods are everywhere.
One of my favorite experiences is cooking with Chef Marika of Acquolina on the Venetian island of Lido. Her cooking classes are hands-on with all local fresh ingredients, and her personality is buoyant and encouraging. If you take the full day class, you start by meeting her in the center of Venice at the famous Rialto market, where dozens of tables and booths are spilling over with produce, seafood, pastas, and spices.
Chef Marika shopping with students at the Rialto Market
Here you go shopping with Marika to choose what you will cook. She’ll listen to your requests and also make some knowing suggestions. She knows where to shop, which are the best vendors…her favorite produce, the best fish.
Chef Marika talking about the artichoke bottoms we’re about to buy
My group from Nashville shopped with her…picking out baby scallops in the shell, small soft-shelled crabs, prawns, and baby squid. We bought fresh whole artichoke hearts (just the bottoms, which we braised and ate like steaks), cherry tomatoes, and fresh peas.
When her rolling shopping cart was completely full, we made a couple of other short stops before boarding a taxi boat to the outer island of Lido. Marika took us to the classic age-old wine bars hidden behind the market. We sipped small glasses of wine and nibbled cichetti — bite-sized appetizers.
Then we took the short boat ride to her home on Lido…
Marika’s home is just a short walk from the boat stop on Lido.
Marika’s home on Lido
As soon as we arrived we started cooking!
Chef Marika showing us how to clean the seafood
We learned to clean baby squid and scallops, how to make a batter for deep-frying small soft-shelled crabs called moleche. We sautéed prawns, and made a fresh tomato sauce for pasta….we prepared all of the wonderful seafood and vegetables.
And then sat down to a fabulous feast.
On our boat ride back to the center of Venice, we were happy, sated, and full of wonderful recipes!
for info about Chef Marika’s classes, contact:
Chef Marika Contaldo Seguso
Acquolina – Villa Ines
Via Lazzaro Mocenigo 10
30126 Venezia-Lido
Tel/Fax (+39) 041 526 7226
e-mail info@acquolina.com
Can I go back to Italy now?
our country hotel in Assisi
I just got back from Italy and I want to go back right now.
Piazza Navona, Roma
Happens every time. It is never enough. Perhaps even living there is never enough (it wasn’t when I DID live there!).
What is it about that country? Okay, I’m second generation Italian-American. So there’s that this-feels-like-home phenomenon. But STILL. The small groups that I lead there are Americans from different descents, and they, TOO, want to stay for extended periods of time.
my group with the proprietors of our Assisi hotel
Italy is the charming country. It’s the beauty. The food…
Siena lunch: ravioli w crispy pancetta
…the People…
Every Italian is thrilled with fresh porcini season…here at Mastro Donato In Testaccio, Roma
…the differences between regions. Differences between cities, towns. The food…
pizza at Mercato Centrale in Firenze
…Striking mountains. Lush hills…
hills in Tuscany
…Stunning coastlines. Coffee…
Siena breakfast
…History. Monuments. Art…
Venus by Botticelli at Uffizi Galleries in Firenze
…Fountains…
…Food…
Bistecca Fiorentina in Firenze
…Philosophy of life.
And it’s shaped like a boot. What other country is clever enough to be shaped like something so recognizable?
On this recent trip, my group and I tasted the food of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio. We dove particularly deep into Firenze, Roma, and Chianti country. I brought back many new recipes from these experiences, and am inspired to recreate many more.
One of my favorites is below. We visited a small winery in the Chianti Classico region, where they served us lunch. The star of the menu was pasta cooked in Chianti wine. Delicious! And so simple. See the recipe below and do try it. Enjoy! Ciao for now…
pasta cooked in Chianti for our wine-tasting at Brogioni Maurizio Montefioralle
Maurizio, the producer, telling us about the process of wine-making
Pasta Cooked in Chianti Wine (serves 2-3)
1/2 cup chopped pancetta (or bacon)
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 lb. cut pasta, such as fusilli or farfalle
3/4 cup Chianti wine or favorite dry red wine
1/4 cup grated parmigiano or pecorino or combination
4-5 fresh sage leaves, diced, stems discarded
salt & pepper to taste
Place a pasta pot of water on the heat. Bring to a boil. Meanwhile, place the olive oil and chopped pancetta in a small frying pan. Cook until pancetta cooks through and browns a bit. Reserve in pan.
When water has boiled, salt water well, add pasta and cook until almost done, just before al dente or to al dente (softness of your cooked pasta is up to you, but Italians don’t like it too soft…pasta will cook some more in the wine).
Start heating wine while pasta is boiling. Pour wine into a sauté pan with at least 2-inch sides. Bring wine to a simmer. Add a pinch of salt to wine. When pasta is al dente, scoop out with a strainer and add pasta to the wine. Let it cook in wine at a lively simmer, stirring, for about 2 minutes until wine is mostly or all absorbed. Take off the heat, or transfer pasta to a bowl.
Season with salt and pepper. Pour in pancetta with its oil. Sprinkle and stir in cheese. Sprinkle and stir in diced sage leaves. Stir to combine. Serve.
Travel to Italy While Staying Home
Modica, Sicilia
When I’m not in Italy, I’m in Italy in my dreams, in my imagination, in my thoughts, in my kitchen, and in my paintings. The country is part of my whole being and inspires so much of what I do.
When I am in Italy I snap images, and take video, in an effort to bring home “a little bit of Italy.” Here are two videos I put together with those images. One is a short compilation of the beauty of Venice…
The other is a short tour of Palermo’s Capo Market…and then a peek into the cooking class my group took on a yacht in Palermo’s harbor…
Later this year I’ll be visiting Assisi, Siena, Florence & Rome. I’ll bring back some more Italy for you. (And me.) In the meantime, visit Italy right now from home…and then, if you can, visit Italy.
Sicily = Home
rainbow at hotel in Ragusa Ibla
My ancestors are from Sicily. My father’s parents from Ragusa. And my mother’s mother from Palermo.
I’ve been to Italy countless times (really countless, because I have no idea how many times) …but last month was my first time to Sicily.
I was in Ragusa. I went to Palermo. I felt the vibes resonating in my soul. I envisioned distant unseen memories. I met people who mirrored my style and spirit. And my palate…it screamed the loudest: “I know this food!!!”
I was a little nervy. I brought a small group of my cooking class students with me. Usually I lead people to places I’ve been. But this was all open exploration. Luckily, my companions were up for the ride and loved every minute as much as I did.
with our hosts of Uncovered Sicily at Santa Tresa Winery in Vittoria
In Ragusa, we cooked with locals in their homes.
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
We ate the food (and I’m telling you the taste was the same!) that I grew up with. Scacce, a kind of thin rolled up pizza with tomato sauce and Ragusano caciocavallo cheese.
scaccia
more scaccia
…and more scacce!
We cooked and dined on pork braised in tomato sauce with ricotta ravioli and “cavati” (a hand-made cut pasta).
Ragusano pasta
In Palermo we shopped the Capo market with our hosts…
Capo market shopping
Capo market, buying fish
…and then cooked on a boat. We cleaned and stuffed sardines. We fried tiny fish and ate them whole in one bite. We marinated baby shrimp in lemon for bruschetta, and made almond cookies dipped in pistachios and candied cherry.
cooking in the boat’s galley
stuffed sardines
shrimp bruschetta
tiny fried fish with pasta and almond pesto
almond cookies
We were wowed by cathedrals in Ragusa, Modica, and Cefalu…
San Giorgio Cathedral in Ragusa Ibla
San Giorgio interior w portrait of Saint George
San Pietro in Modica
San Pietro Cathedral interior
Cefalu Cathedral
Cefalu Cathedral interior
We were delighted with groves (and city dwelling) cactus plants laden with prickly pears (that we ate at one of our dinners).
cactus in piazza in Ragusa Ibla
peeled prickly pears at Giovanni and Agata’s home
The arancina…
arancina w cappuccino Ragusa
arancina w cappuccino Cefalu
The special chocolate in Modica hand-made in the aztec-style…
making chocolate in Modica
The gelato…
Modican chocolate and coconut gelato
The cannoli and pastries (and pastries) (and pastries)…
pastries in Cefalu
pastries Palermo
cannolo Ragusa
And the wine. The Sicilian wine. Charming and comforting.
I’m just back now for a couple of weeks and I’m already scheming about returning. There is a spirit in Sicily like nowhere else in Italy. Its heritage, steeped in many cultures (Arab, Spanish, Norman, Greek) all combine to make such a unique world. I know what that is now. And I’m so happy to be made of the same stuff.
at restaurant Quattro Gatti in Ragusa Ibla
Dreaming of Positano
Positano
Maybe it’s the weather. Spring. That fresh air. Carrying the scents of baby leaves, buds about to burst, the planet’s new tip toward the sun.
But I’ve got Positano on my mind.
Positano
There is only one place like it. Adjacent towns along the Amalfi Coast are not exactly Positano. They all have their own secret charm. But only in Positano do the buildings pile up so high.
Positano
Does the beach draw you to the sea. Do the meandering, circling, serpentine streets take you from the top…
Positano
…to the bottom and back again.
Positano
And every storefront, hotel, restaurant, cafe along the way is where you want to spend hours–
Positano
each place — one at a time…
Positano
— so that you stay in Positano for an unlimited amount of days. Yes, that’s what I want.
Positano
Italian Drinks – Shortest Way to Get to the Boot
Italian drinks
I have a lot of favorite Italian drinks, liquors, liqueurs. They all have distinctive flavors and assertive personalities. They are each built with the character of Italy.
Sip any one of them and feel the air of Italy, the bumpy cobblestones of a Roman street, the colliding aromas of espresso & moped fumes, the centuries-old sparkle of the Ligurian Mediterranean, the stunning (seemingly impossible) vistas of Campania & Venezia, the roller coaster ride of the language of Italy floating about your ears.
Taste one of these drinks and the sensory receptors of your palate will zap you back to where you first tasted it. It takes you there. To Italy.
And if you haven’t been to Italy, taste any one of these and be privileged to know the secret aura of true Italian taste.
Some are aperitivi (before dinner drinks), some digestivi (after dinner drinks), some find their way into any part of the day, like grappa.
Here are some of my favorites and their particular “spirit.”
Campari…
Campari
This bright red bitter drink was first spied on by my mom on her first trip to Rome. What are they all drinking that is look-at-me red and savored with ice, with soda, and straight? We had to explore. And WOW. Both my mom and I fell in love with Campari. Some say “stay away!”…they think cough syrup is at hand. But Italians (and me and mom) beg to differ. Refreshing, bright, summery (but have it in winter, too), add rocks with some soda or tonic, add a sliver of lemon or lime. Oh yes.
(In Italy you can find little adorable bottles of Campari and soda already mixed.)
Campari Soda
Punt e Mes…
Punt e Mes
This one has a secret recipe. I imagine the creator in a Torino apartment surrounded by floor to ceiling books. John Coltrane plays on the record player. A cigarette likely hangs from his mouth as he dices some onion for a risotto and in between sips Punt e Mes on the rocks. But the recipe is a lot older than that and likely involves a wearer of wide-pleated trousers, suspenders, and a broad mustache. My first sip took place on a top floor of the Ansonia Hotel in NY. My Italian teacher (who was from Verona) took out a bottle during class and served it to the five of us around her dining table. I felt like my taste buds were socked in the nose. And I was suddenly speaking Italian with ease. Che sorpresa! Where can I get this? (Also a candidate for rocks and lemon.)
Vermouth “Bianco”
Carpano Bianco
Vermouth Bianco
I usually buy the Italian Carpano Vermouth Bianco, but once in a while I go for the French version: Dolin Blanc. So look at this way. You have your dry vermouth — the stuff of martinis. And your have your sweet vermouth — the stuff of Negronis. But here we have something in the middle. A “white” vermouth with a touch of sweetness. But this sweetness is a full flavor of its own. In the “old days” you could only find this in Europe. Now the liquor stores have gotten smart. And we are the lucky ones for that. Another drink for rocks and a bit of lemon before dinner. (This could turn out to be your absolute favorite.)
Amaro…
Amaro
On the other side of dinner look for a digestivo called “amaro.” There are many. Amaro actually means bitter, but these are very easy to swallow. It’s the taste of a bouquet of unknown and foreign herbs all corralled together to give your taste buds a unique ride. Taken just straight (maybe a bit less than a shot glass quantity) after dinner. The digestivo name is quite literal: it helps you to digest.
Sambuca….
Sambuca
Speaking of after dinner: where’s the Sambuca? (Although my dad would sometimes take a nip in the morning to “clear his throat.”) This is the relative to anisette — if you remember that old classic served after dinner at Italian restaurants (and homes). It’s anise-flavored liqueur that’s a bit syrupy and sweet (yet not as sweet as anisette). I used to pour it into my espresso instead of sugar. Espresso and Sambuca are a splendid marriage — the Italian version of Irish coffee (which I LOVE). But more usually sipped in a cordial glass after dinner. Or order it on the rocks any time just for fun. They have finally stocked the black Sambuca locally. It’s as dark as ink and almost a shock when you pour it. But pure magic.
Grappa…
grappa
Grappa exists to knock your socks off. It’s what Italians make from the leftover skins, seeds, and stems of winemaking (why waste anything?). Therefore there are as many grappas as there are grapes and then some. They come in many flavors, but usually grappa is clear white (and quite high in alcohol), and packs a punch. I call it the moonshine of Italy. It’s been known to cure colds, settle stomachs, warm an icy day, and bring on a rosy complexion. I’m currently slowly rationing the gorgeous skinny bottle I brought back from Italy. This one is prosecco grappa from a wonderful wine tour we took at Frozza vineyards in the Veneto.
Sip on any of these drinks and Italy will make an appearance in your soul. Try whispering an Italian expression while sipping: “Mmmm. Molto buono!” You will feel like Sophia Loren. Or Marcello Mastroianni. And you might actually hear a careening vespa in the distance.
Italia
Dreaming of Amalfi – Lemon Ravioli
Amalfi paining by Chef Paulette
I just finished this painting of a view of Amalfi. When I’m deep in a painting of a beautiful Italian scene I feel myself in that place. I can even smell the air. Feel the sea breeze. My palate gets nostalgic, too. So I’m remembering the lemony ravioli we had on our last trip to Amalfi in 2014. It was at a restaurant in Maiori. A place right on the beach.
lemon ravioli in cream sauce at a restaurant in Maiori
Lemons are huge in Amalfi and grow everywhere. The cuisine is filled with lemons, too (this where limoncello comes from).
Amalfi lemon
This ravioli lemon-filled dish was so spectacular I figured out how to make it and we’ve cooked in class several times.
lemon ravioli-making in class
Try this immersion into lemon love. Ravioli with lemon-scented ricotta filling and a very lemony cream sauce.
Lemony-Ricotta Stuffed Ravioli w Lemon-Cream Sauce
For the dough:
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra
¼ teaspoon salt
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
For the filling:
1 lb. ricotta
½ cup grated cheese
zest of 3 lemons
salt & pepper to taste
For the Sauce:
2 lemons
½ stick unsalted butter (4 tablespoons)
1 cup dry white wine
2/3 cup cream
salt & pepper to taste
1/2 cup grated cheese
Make the dough: Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl, and shape into a mound. Create a “well” in the mound and add the eggs. Using a fork slowly mix the flour into the egg, until the dough comes together and most or all the flour is mixed in. Gather the dough and knead it on a lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth, shape into a ball and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest for 30 minutes.
Make the filling: Mix the ricotta, grated cheese, and lemon zest. Combine well. Season with salt & pepper.
Make the ravioli: Cut the dough into four pieces. Work with one piece at a time and keep the other pieces covered in plastic wrap. Flatten the dough into a rough rectangle, and roll through the pasta machine, changing the numbers from thick to thinner (lower to higher) one at a time until you reach the next-to-the-last number on the machine. Dust the sheet with flour in between every couple of numbers to keep it from sticking in the machine.
Lay the sheet on a table. Place scant ½-teaspoons of filling in row on the bottom half of the sheet, about an inch apart. Fold the top half over the bottom half. Press all the edges closed to seal well. Cut in between to make the individual ravioli. Place the finished ravioli on a flour-dusted sheet and repeat with the rest of the dough.
Make the Sauce: Zest the 2 lemons. Then quarter each lemon, cut off the peel entirely and minced the lemon pulp, discarding any seeds. Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan. Add the zest and pulp. Heat till hot. Add the wine. Cook until simmering. Add the cream. Stir to combine. Cook on medium low heat until cream is bubbling and slightly reduced. Season with salt & pepper.
Cook the ravioli: Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Salt water. Drop in the ravioli and cook until al dente, about 3 minutes. Spoon half of the sauce into a large shallow serving bowl. Add a few small spoonfuls of pasta water to dilute sauce a bit. Add ravioli, top with more sauce and gently coat. Serve with some grated cheese.
Chef Paulette 