rainbow at hotel in Ragusa Ibla
My ancestors are from Sicily. My father’s parents from Ragusa. And my mother’s mother from Palermo.
I’ve been to Italy countless times (really countless, because I have no idea how many times) …but last month was my first time to Sicily.
I was in Ragusa. I went to Palermo. I felt the vibes resonating in my soul. I envisioned distant unseen memories. I met people who mirrored my style and spirit. And my palate…it screamed the loudest: “I know this food!!!”
I was a little nervy. I brought a small group of my cooking class students with me. Usually I lead people to places I’ve been. But this was all open exploration. Luckily, my companions were up for the ride and loved every minute as much as I did.
with our hosts of Uncovered Sicily at Santa Tresa Winery in Vittoria
In Ragusa, we cooked with locals in their homes.
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
making scacce in Marina di Ragusa
We ate the food (and I’m telling you the taste was the same!) that I grew up with. Scacce, a kind of thin rolled up pizza with tomato sauce and Ragusano caciocavallo cheese.
scaccia
more scaccia
…and more scacce!
We cooked and dined on pork braised in tomato sauce with ricotta ravioli and “cavati” (a hand-made cut pasta).
Ragusano pasta
In Palermo we shopped the Capo market with our hosts…
Capo market shopping
Capo market, buying fish
…and then cooked on a boat. We cleaned and stuffed sardines. We fried tiny fish and ate them whole in one bite. We marinated baby shrimp in lemon for bruschetta, and made almond cookies dipped in pistachios and candied cherry.
cooking in the boat’s galley
stuffed sardines
shrimp bruschetta
tiny fried fish with pasta and almond pesto
almond cookies
We were wowed by cathedrals in Ragusa, Modica, and Cefalu…
San Giorgio Cathedral in Ragusa Ibla
San Giorgio interior w portrait of Saint George
San Pietro in Modica
San Pietro Cathedral interior
Cefalu Cathedral
Cefalu Cathedral interior
We were delighted with groves (and city dwelling) cactus plants laden with prickly pears (that we ate at one of our dinners).
cactus in piazza in Ragusa Ibla
peeled prickly pears at Giovanni and Agata’s home
The arancina…
arancina w cappuccino Ragusa
arancina w cappuccino Cefalu
The special chocolate in Modica hand-made in the aztec-style…
making chocolate in Modica
The gelato…
Modican chocolate and coconut gelato
The cannoli and pastries (and pastries) (and pastries)…
pastries in Cefalu
pastries Palermo
cannolo Ragusa
And the wine. The Sicilian wine. Charming and comforting.
I’m just back now for a couple of weeks and I’m already scheming about returning. There is a spirit in Sicily like nowhere else in Italy. Its heritage, steeped in many cultures (Arab, Spanish, Norman, Greek) all combine to make such a unique world. I know what that is now. And I’m so happy to be made of the same stuff.
at restaurant Quattro Gatti in Ragusa Ibla
Chef Paulette 
Paulette–loved scrolling through this—such stunning images. What a trip! So happy that you got to go to the place of your heritage, your roots!
thanks so much, Nancy! it left quite an impression…loved it!
Please let me know when you plan to return. Sicily is at the top of my Bucket List!!! To go with you, my friend, would be a dream!
Hello there traveling adventurer! Will do! Not sure when that would be — may have to be in another part of Italy first but would love to return to Sicily asap! Buon viaggio…:)
What stuffing was used with sardines?
I was surprised to see all the different native folks. Lots of history, lots of conquests based on location of Sicily. Fascinating.
He Georgeann, the stuffing was very simple: breadcrumbs, pine nuts, orange or lemon zest, olive oil, vinegar, raisins, grated pecorino. It’s the locals that make the trip! Thanks so much!
Looks like an incredible trip. By chance, do you happen to have a good recipe for Bolognese?
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Thanks, Amy! Yes, I do…here ’tis…enjoy!
Bolognese Sauce:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 celery stalk, minced
2 carrots, minced
1 small onion, minced
2 slices pancetta, coarsely chopped
1 lb. ground beef or a mixture of beef and ground veal
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
½ cup chicken broth
¼ cup heavy cream or milk
salt & pepper to taste
In a medium heavy saucepan heat the olive oil. When hot add the celery, carrot, and onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the pancetta, cook another 3 minutes. Add the beef/veal and cook, breaking up the clumps until no longer raw. Add the wine. Cook until almost evaporated. Add the tomatoes and broth. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a slow simmer and set heat to low. Let simmer for an hour or two until the liquid has reduced and sauce is dense. Traditionally the sauce is simmered for the full length of time, but after an hour you’ll have a very tasty sauce! Add cream and simmer for another 10-15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Wonderful…..but……..some of you from campania ……doesn’t matter…..love, mom xxxoooo.s. Beautifully written. Makes you want to go.
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And yes, that other quarter of me is from Campania…yay! i love it just as much!