Why not 8? Or 14? Or 3?
Turns out that the Christmas Eve tradition of a meal of seven fishes is mainly an Italian-American tradition, not an Italian one. It seems to be based on La Vigilia. The vigil on the eve of Christ’s birth. But the seafood part spins far from the religious part.
And why seven fishes? Conjecture imagines: 7 sacraments of Catholicism? 7 days for the creation of the world in the Genesis story? The 7 hills of Rome?
Maybe it doesn’t matter. I’m happy to have a meal of seven fishes. What a lovely culinary tradition. Ordinarily the star of the show is baccala…the salt-cured cod that takes a few days to rinse and drain of its salt and make into the tender cod that we love. In Nashville, I don’t come across baccala at all. So my Christmas Eve dinner was without it.
Still, when I was growing up, Christmas Eve dinner was the domain of my mom. Relatives all came to our house for the feast. We didn’t have baccala either, but went for the shellfish instead: Shrimp, clams, scungilli, squid, lobster, and crab.
This year the night was all mine (with sous chef help from my friend, Donna). My mom came as a guest and I think she was happy to be just that. I took over the kitchen.
I decided 5 fish would be enough and didn’t let myself feel the pressure of the “seven.” Am I missing some of the sacred glow? Perhaps. But I was willing to risk it!
Lump Crabmeat Salad
Spaghetti alle Vongole
Tilapia alla Francese
…plus 2 vegetables & lots of dessert items…
But back to the fish.
Here’s the appetizer of Crabmeat Salad & Fried Calamari…
This course has Mario Batali written all over it. I tweeted him a question about what to put in the crabmeat cocktail. He answered: lime, fennel, cilantro & celery. I went for some of what he suggested and added to the crab: lime juice, celery, celery leaves, parsley, a bit of olive oil and some salt. For the calamari I went to Batali again. After cleaning and cutting the squid into “rubber bands & spiders” (my sister’s dubbing), I simply tossed them in cornstarch and shook loose the excess then fried squid pieces in 2 inches of hot olive oil. Lifted them out in 2 minutes or so, then sprinkled some salt. These 2 mini-dishes were the perfect complement to each other.
On to Spaghetti & Clams…
Here’s another easy one: Boil 1 lb. spaghetti in abundant salty water. In another large pot saute 5-6 sliced garlic cloves in about 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil. When starting to color add a handful of chopped parsley. When simmering add about a cup and half of dry white wine. Season with salt and pepper and hot pepper flakes. Let simmer. Then add 3 dozen scrubbed little neck or manila clams. Cover. When pasta is al dente, reserve a cup of cooking water. Drain pasta. When clams have opened add drained spaghetti. Toss. Add more olive oil and some pasta water. Add a few handfuls of toasted breadcrumbs (how to make breadcrumbs: in a medium skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil, add about a cup of crumbs & a garlic clove and saute until crumbs are toasty brown, season with salt & pepper. Use these at table, too, to sprinkle on servings of pasta.)
Third course: Shrimp Scampi & Tilapia Francese…
For the Shrimp. Line a sheet pan with foil. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. Lay out the peeled, deveined shrimp (I used 2 lbs. large shrimp). Sprinkle shrimp with salt & pepper. Sprinkle with 3-4 cloves coarsely minced garlic. Sprinkle with breadcrumb to cover lightly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Drizzle with olive oil. Cook in 400-degree oven for about 10 minutes until shrimp are opaque and breadcrumbs toasty. Serve with lemon wedges.
Final fish: Tilapia Francese…
What makes this “francese” or “French-style” is the method. We dip pieces of tilapia in seasoned flour and then in a beaten egg. Saute in hot olive oil. The egg coating gives a lacy, lovely effect. I served this on a bed of dressed baby arugula.
5 of the 7 fishes. Plenty for us!
Oh mercy Paulette what a meal! Vongole is just one of my favorites and your recipe seems very doable. I love this story and recipes for all “5” fish. Happy New Year.
Happy New Year to you, too, Teresa. Thanks so much!!
Looked scrumptious. What is scungilli? Happy a great New Year’s Eve. Mary
On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Chef Paulette
scungilli is basically conch…I have no idea how to cook it — but my mom does!