The Lowly Breadcrumb…Not

Toasted Breadcrumb

Toasted Breadcrumb

All you have to do is add a little olive oil to a sauté pan. Heat it a bit. Throw in a peeled, smashed clove of garlic. Add about a cup of breadcrumbs (regular, panko, fresh-made, either/or) and sauté until golden or dark brown. Season with salt & pepper. Discard garlic clove.

Now what?

I used to only make this when I made pasta with a seafood sauce. Toasted, flavored breadcrumb sprinkled on the pasta instead of cheese is the best way to enjoy seafood pasta.

But now I go crazy. I’m topping fish filets and then roasting them in the oven with some added lemon. (Sometimes I add a little grated parmigiano to the breadcrumb.)

Cod Filets with Breadcrumb Topping

Cod Filets with Breadcrumb Topping

I’m mixing the toasted breadcrumb with roasted or sautéed vegetables.  (Zucchini, roasted peppers, string beans, asparagus.)

Zucchini and yellow squash

Zucchini and yellow squash

Peppers, Capers, Breadcrumb

Peppers, Capers, Breadcrumb

Sprinkle some on top of scrambled eggs. Add it to the salad.  Stuff a chicken breast. Or a mushroom or tomato.

Roasted Tomatoes with Breadcrumb

Roasted Tomatoes with Breadcrumb

The crunch, the added flavor, the look of it (rustic, surprising, okay, yes, exciting) takes your dish to a deeper level. Maybe it’s from the cucina povera but necessity is often the muse of several bouts of serendipity.

Paulette

Paulette

Some Favorite Pals: Strawberries & Cream & Cake

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake

Oh, tiny dessert, at last I’ve found you (sung to “Sweet Mystery of Life”).

Why do I like tiny desserts so much? My eye just always goes for the miniature. I love the detail. The care. It doesn’t feel overwhelming. I like small bites. (Remember YEARS ago the movie…I think it was called “Gemini”…and the commercial would always isolate the moment when one character is wolfing down a plate of food and another character watches in disgust yelling: “Take human bites!”)

That’s what I like: human bites. Did you ever get a salad in a restaurant and the leaves are the side of your face? So now you have use a fork and knife and get it into pieces you can fit in your mouth. What’s wrong with serving a salad someone can actually eat with a fork?

Same with wine pours. I’ve spent a lot of time in Italy. Nowhere have I found anyone to fill a glass of wine…or fill it to 3/4…odd to see even 2/3 full. A few swallows in the glass. Then pour some more. When someone pours me a too-full glass I get a passing feeling of almost drowning. Too much liquid to comprehend. Sip human sips!

But back to desserts. I never even ate desserts until the last few years. And so I naturally love the little desserts. Pastries, cupcakes, cookies, and slim slices of cake and tarts.

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake? Let’s make ’em small. And this isn’t really a shortcake. I use the word to evoke the traditional sweet of strawberry-short-cake. But this is a pleasant surprise of a taste that gives you what you expect and then adds more yumminess.

Mix 2 cups of sliced strawberries with a couple of teaspoons of sugar. Let sit at room temperature for about an hour. Brings out the juices.

In a medium mixing bowl whisk together 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, healthy pinch of salt and 3 tablespoons sugar. Cut a cold stick of unsalted butter (8 tablespoons) into chunky dice. Add it to flour mixture and using a pastry cutter or 2 knives, cut butter into small or pea-sized pieces. Make a well in the center and pour in a very generous 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt and 1 large egg. Mix until just combined well.

Knead dough gently on a lightly-floured surface, then pat into a ½ -inch to 1-inch thick circle. Using a biscuit cutter, cut out circles and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Reform leftover dough into a disk and cut out more until all the dough is used. Sprinkle the tops with sugar. Bake for about 12-15 minutes in a 400 degree oven until golden. Let them cool.

Add 1 cup cream to a medium mixing bowl. Beat until soft peaks form, add 1 tablespoon of sugar and a drop of vanilla. Beat till stiffer peaks form.

Cut cooled cakes in half horizontally. Add a layer of cream to the bottom half and a layer of sliced strawberries. Top with top half. Add a small dollop of cream to top, and place a slice of strawberry in the cream.

These cakes have a soft consistency with a little chew-bite. The flavor & texture the yogurt brings is perfect for the addition of strawberries and cream.

Strawberries and cream.

Such a perfect pair, you can picture them hand in hand skipping down the lane. Seems a dessert deserving of a Proust-memory-zapping experience. That perfect pair leads us groping around with closed eyes in the days of our childhood. Ah! Here’s Buster, my teddy bear. And here’s my little white furniture desk that my mom painted with a few delicate pink and red flowers. And here’s my strawberries and cream…in a bowl…held by my small hands.

Strawberries & Cream Yogurt Cake

Strawberries & Cream Yogurt Cake

 

My little cauli-flower (in Italian: cavolfiore)

Roasted cauliflower

Roasted cauliflower

A lot of people are running away from white foods. White bread, white potatoes, white rice…white flour in general. But not white cauliflower.

Oh, that smooth head of tight-woven flowerets. There’s something satisfying about even holding a cauliflower. It has some nice heft to it. It’s got those thick real-farm-feel leaves (even tho we cut them out and throw them away)…cauliflower just feels important. When you pick it up from the produce shelf in the supermarket you’re ticking off another check in the healthy food column of your diet. You kinda pat yourself on the back for choosing it.

And yes, you should! Cauliflower has: carotenoids, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, omega-3, vitamin K, its anti-inflammatory, detoxifies, and studies call it a disease-preventing food.

Years ago, I used to steam florets and then pour something creamy or buttery on top. Now I’m hooked on roasting it. And adding olives. And olive oil. And salt & pepper. And that’s it. But my favorite part is how I cut it. After removing the impressive stems and leaves, I cut the head in half, then in quarters. I make slices of each quarter as thin as I can. Each slice looks like a cross-section of cauliflower. Like some scientific study in cauliflower anatomy.

Cauliflower anataomy

Cauliflower anatomy

Lay the slices out on a foil-lined, lightly oiled sheet pan. sprinkle olives (I often use sliced kalamata), drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle salt & pepper generously.

Cauliflower ready to roast

Cauliflower ready to roast

Roast in 400-degree oven for about 20 minutes until tender. Leave in longer and get some browning going.

Roasted cauliflower

Roasted cauliflower

You’re gonna love this.

Cauliflower: ready to eat

Cauliflower: ready to eat

Would you like a little chocolate tart?

 

Chocolate Tarts in pan

Chocolate Tarts in pan

Whoa. What a blast in class tonight. We were cookin’ with gas even tho I have an electric stove top. But we knew what we were doing. It was like a little tornado in the kitchen. Spinning energy that stirred up every dish with friendly hot-happy enthusiasm. Oh yeah. Thank you great cooks who come cook with me!

Amidst the black pepper-infused fresh fettuccine (we thought we had over-peppered the pasta dough, but, oh, no, it was peppery and beautiful), and the veal stew with artichokes & white wine, and the escarole sautéed with garlic and dried cranberries, were the little charmers that made it out of the oven with modest sweetness and then wowed us when we crowned them with whipped cream and orange zest. Yay, dessert, we would never desert you. Little chocolate tarts …we bow to your genius.

How to? Easy. (I’m always interested in that special kind of easy that creates wonders.) (The kind I’ve seen over and over in Italian kitchens where the simple is the sublime.) (That’s my goal.) (Always.)

For the Crust:

3/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon sugar

pinch salt

1/2 stick cold butter (4 tablespoons), cut into small cubes

1/8 cup ice-cold white wine (or a bit more if needed)

Pulse dry ingredients in a food processor. Add butter, pulse till broken up but still with big chunks. Add wine. Pulse till it comes together in a ball of dough. Press dough into a flat, thick disk. Wrap in plastic. Refrigerate 1 hour.

Roll out dough. Cut 3.5 to 4 inch circles. Fit dough gently into medium cupcake tin cups. Add some parchment in each, fill with dried beans, blind bake for 12 minutes in 375 degree oven. Remove parchment and beans.

For the Filling:

Heat 2/3 cup heavy cream in a small saucepan. When hot add 4 oz. bittersweet chocolate, 1/2 teaspoon each: vanilla extract, orange extract, instant espresso powder. Whisk smooth. Beat an egg in a small bowl. Add a couple teaspoons of hot chocolate mixture to temper, whisk in. Then add egg to chocolate mixture and whisk till smooth.

Spoon filling into crusts. Bake for 10 minutes.

IMG_5053

When cool. Beat 1/2 cup heavy cream into whipped cream (with 1/2 teaspoon of sugar). Add a dollop to each tart. Sprinkle with some orange zest.

Chocolate Tarts w Cream

Chocolate Tarts w Cream

Try eating these with a fork in dainty forkfuls. Or by hand, just bite into them (with dainty bites). Or if you’re really feeling ambitious, pretend you’re on the Flintstones where any bite is a big one and munch the whole thing at once.

(It’s all a matter of style.)

Chocolate Tarts w Whipped Cream

Chocolate Tarts w Whipped Cream

 

Chocolate. Crispy. Easy. Oh yes.

Crispy Chocolate Pastries

Crispy Chocolate Pastries

Really. I never used to like sweets. I could down a whole loaf of bread before even looking at a Danish.

But all that has changed. Somewhere over the last few years sweets have lured me in. It probably has something to do with the cooking classes I teach. I like to include a dessert in each menu if possible. So I began experimenting with cakes, pastries, tarts, pies. Free form, in French pans, mini-treats in cupcake tins. I’ve discovered that the possibilities for baked sweets are endless. A frontier strewn with history and constant invention. I’m now on the trail and inexhaustibly interested!

Of course, easy is always a goal. I love easy with spectacular results. That’s what you’ve got here with those unassuming mini-pastries in the picture above. Here’s how it goes (Filo dough. Filo dough makes these crispy):

12 sheets filo dough

1 stick butter, melted

2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup powdered sugar

Lay the filo sheets flat on a clean work surface. Cut them lengthwise into 3 columns. Lay out one strip of dough and brush with butter.  Lay another strip on top and brush with butter. Lay a third on top and brush with butter. Place about a tablespoon of chocolate chips at the lower end of the 3-layer strip. Fold over one corner over the chips to cover them, then continue folding like a flag until you have a completed triangle. Fold over the dough edge at the top and brush with butter to seal.

Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and brush top with butter. Repeat with the rest of the dough and chocolate. Makes a dozen.

Bake for 20-25 minutes in a 400 degree oven until golden. Serve warm or at room temp. Dust with powdered sugar.

Yes, the chocolate melts. Yes, you bite into light, flaky, crispiness. And then get the prize melted chocolate. Invite people to share these with you or you will eat them all. Addictive.

 

Recipe for Shrimp & Spinach Cannelloni

 

Cannelloni ingredients

Cannelloni ingredients

Here’s the recipe for the Shrimp Cannelloni. It’s a bit more involved than I usually get, but it’s worth the journey. Make it on a day when you can relax and have fun with it (or involve friends, family, or kids!).  Let me know if you have any questions about the recipe or process.

Buon Appetito!

Shrimp & Spinach-Stuffed Cannelloni 

For the Tomato Sauce:

1 28-oz can plum tomatoes

1 small onion, sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled

drizzle of olive oil

2-3 sprigs of parsley

salt & pepper to taste

¼ cup cream

For the Pasta:

2 cups flour

¼ teaspoon salt

3 eggs, lightly beaten

For the filling:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 lb. shrimp, shelled, deveined, each shrimp cut into 3 or 4 pieces

3 tablespoons brandy

1 small onion, minced

2 celery stalks, minced

9 ounces spinach, cooked and minced (or thawed frozen spinach), well-drained

2 cups besciamella sauce (see below)

1 cup mozzarella, shredded

¼ cup parmigiano

For the Besciamella sauce:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

pinch nutmeg

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F

Make the tomato sauce:

Drain and the canned tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Drizzle olive oil on a baking sheet. Add plum tomatoes from can, onion, garlic, parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Spread mixture out. Bake in a hot oven until simmering and caramelized—about 20-30 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor and pulse sauce until blended. Stir in the reserved tomato liquid. Stir in the cream. Adjust for seasoning.

Make the pasta:

Whisk the flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a “well” in the middle of the flour and add the eggs. Using a fork slowly mix the flour into the egg, until the dough comes together. Press dough together to make a rough ball. Gather the dough and knead on a lightly floured surface. If it’s too sticky add a little flour. Knead for about 5 minutes until smooth. Shape into a ball and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest at room temp for 30 minutes.

Cut the dough into four pieces. Work with one piece at a time and keep the other pieces covered in plastic wrap. Flatten the dough into a rough rectangle, and roll through the pasta machine, changing the numbers from thick to thinner one at a time until you reach the setting before the last. Lay the sheet on a table and cut it into rough squares approximately 4 inches wide. Repeat with the rest of the dough.

Heat water in a pasta pot until boiling. Add salt. Boil pasta sheets until al dente then remove and rinse under cool water.

Make: the Besciamella sauce:

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the flour and whisk until flour is cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and whisk. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Simmer over medium heat, whisking, until thickened. Allow to cool.

Make the Shrimp filling:

Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet. When hot, toss in the shrimp. Season with salt. Cook a minute or two until hot, then add the brandy and let evaporate. Take shrimp out with slotted spoon and reserve. Add the onion and celery. Cook until softened. Take mixture off the heat to cool. In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the the onion and celery, spinach, shrimp, mozzarella, besciamella sauce, parsley, . Season with salt & pepper.

Make the Cannelloni:

Lay some paper towels on a work surface and lay out the pasta sheets on top. Add 2-3 tablespoons of the shrimp filling on one of the short edges of a pasta sheet. Roll up to form the cannelloni. Repeat with the rest of the pasta and filling.

In a casserole dish spoon some of the tomato sauce, Line up the cannelloni in the dish seam side down. Spoon tomato sauce over the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Bake for 40 minutes until golden. Serve warm.

NOTE: In picture below we had some extra besciamella sauce left so we drizzled it on top of the cannelloni before baking.

 

time to eat the cannelloni!

time to eat the cannelloni!

 

 

Frittata. The Chameleon in the Kitchen.

mushrooms and tomato

mushrooms and tomato

They say accessories make the outfit. Well, how would you accessorize eggs?

I start with what’s in the refrigerator. OR I see what’s in the refrigerator and think: “that would make a great frittata.”

So to accessorize my eggs I’d sometimes choose mushrooms, or potatoes, or peppers, or tomatoes, or leftover pasta, or herbs and onion. Or all of that.

Today the chameleon took on the color of tomato and mushroom. And eventually well-goldened egg.

Mushroom Tomato Frittata

Mushroom Tomato Frittata

And even tho this chameleon couldn’t blend so as to disappear against the background of the kitchen, it, nonetheless, looked…splendid.

I started by heating some olive oil in a stainless sauté pan. Added some sliced mushrooms…

sautéing mushrooms

sautéing mushrooms

…cooked till softened…

cooked mushrooms

cooked mushrooms

…cracked 4 eggs and whisked with parmigiano and salt and pepper…

whisking egg with parmigiano

whisking egg with parmigiano

…put eggs in the pan with mushrooms…….added tomato slices. Cooked over medium heat until bottom was set…

tomatoes in frittata

tomatoes in frittata

…then put under broiler for 3-5 minutes until golden….

cooked frittata

cooked frittata

DON’T FORGET THE HANDLE ON THE SAUTE PAN IS OVEN-HOT….when you take it out use a potholder and then leave the potholder on the handle to REMIND yourself it’s hot!

Loosen frittata from pan and slide onto a serving dish. Cut into wedges. Hot or room temp (even cold). Yay. Yum.

frittata serving

frittata serving

Got Eggplant? Here’s a very quick parmigiano!

eggplant

eggplant

Okay I’ll admit it. I’m not a big fan of eggplant. (Please don’t boo so loudly.) I’m Italian-American and 3 quarters of my background is Sicilian and Sicilians love eggplant. But I’m not one of them.

However. There are times when an eggplant dish just hits the spot. I try hard to make that happen so that even I like eggplant.

Here’s one of those dishes/times.

It all came about because an eggplant in the refrigerator was going to turn from good to bad. I had to cook it quickly and didn’t want to take too much time doing it.

I sliced the eggplant thinly (peel and all). Placed the slices in one layer on a sheet pan (foil-lined), drizzled olive oil, sprinkled salt & pepper. Baked it till soft and a bit golden. (400 degrees, about 20 minutes)

sliced eggplant ready for the oven

sliced eggplant ready for the oven

I made a quick tomato sauce. Sautéed minced onion in olive oil and I had a few mushrooms, so I broke them into small pieces and added them to the sauté. (As well as a few minced sage leaves-happened to have some.)

onion & mushrooms

onion & mushrooms

A splash of white wine, let it evaporate, then a 15-oz can of crushed toms.

crushed tomatoes

crushed tomatoes

quick tomato sauce

quick tomato sauce

In a casserole dish I spread some sauce. Layered the eggplant. Sprinkled some shredded mozzarella and some grated parmigiano, more sauce, and repeat. (I also happened to have some cooked broccoli rabe in the fridge, so I put that in! Totally optional.)

building the eggplant parm

building the eggplant parm

 

eggplant w cheese

eggplant w cheese

Bake for 25-30 minutes. It’s GOOD. This eggplant I like. Tastes rustic, earthy, old world. My kind of eggplant.

baked eggplant parmigiano

baked eggplant parmigiano

All About the Tool (And a Recipe, too…Chicken!)

la batticarne

la batticarne

In Italian they call it a batticarne. Something to batter beef, pork, veal, chicken…cutlet, medallion, or scallopine. I have a friend who loved mine. When she went to Italy she was determined to get one. She came home with one 10 times the size. That’s some weighty batticarne! She and her husband carried it on the plane in their carry-on luggage, through the airport for plane changes, and home. She loves it. It does the trick. But then she longed for a smaller one. Like mine. She found it on Hillsboro Road, right in the neighborhood so to speak, at Davis Cookware. (Yes, that place has EVERYTHING!)

I got mine many years ago (probably 20 or more years ago) at a shop in Manhattan’s Little Italy (Mulberry Street). At the time I was more fascinated with the box. The box totally charmed me.

la batticarne box

la batticarne box

What was inside I rarely used until just a few years ago. The littler “pounder” (also charming) helps in the kitchen with humble friendliness. All you need is heavy flick of your wrist. I’ve kept the box altho it is starting to fall apart. Every time I use the batticarne, I wash it, put it back in the box, and back in its special spot in my cabinet.

la batticarne with box

la batticarne with box

Some people use a pounder that has nasty teeth. I like the smooth flat surface of this one. It doesn’t tear up the meat.

I use the pounder mostly for this simple chicken dish, (which can have infinite variations)…

I start with a boneless, skinless 1/2 chicken breast. I like to cut my own cutlets. With a sharp knife I just (width-wise) (and at a 45-degree angle) slice slices from the breast about a 1/4-inch thick. You get about 6 slices.

chicken on plastic

chicken on plastic

I roll out a long piece of plastic wrap and lay it on the counter. I space out the chicken pieces on the plastic and cover it with another piece of plastic wrap…same size.

cutlets covered in plastic

cutlets covered in plastic

Then I pound the meat with the little batticarne. Almost straight down onto the meat slice–with some force but not crazy-force. The meat easily flattens thinner. And each piece becomes a little bigger.

pounding cutlets

pounding cutlets

Try it also with pork cutlets, veal cutlets, or turkey cutlets.

dredging meat in flour

dredging meat in flour

Put some flour for dredging on a plate or in a shallow bowl. Season it with salt & pepper. Heat a sauté pan with some olive oil. When hot, dredge the cutlets in the flour, shaking off excess.

saute cutlets

saute cutlets

Sauté cutlets for 2-3 minutes per side till a bit golden. Turn them over and cook another minute or two till golden. When the cutlets are done, remove them to a serving plate.

shallots and sage

shallots and sage

Add minced shallot and some minced fresh sage to the pan (add a little olive oil if needed). Sauté for a minute or two.

wine in pan

wine in pan

Add a healthy splash of white wine. Let wine almost evaporate and add a pat of butter. Swirl till melted.

finished chicken cutlets

finished chicken cutlets

Pour sauce over cutlets. Serve it with an arugula salad. Or romaine salad dressed with a parmigiano vinaigrette.

Deliciousness made easy!

Asparagus. Easy. With 3 Levels of Tasty.

Asparagus w 3 Flavors

Asparagus w 3 Flavors

I’m sure I’m not the only one who gets nervous if there isn’t a green dish somewhere amongst the dinner menu. I need to have at least one dish that has green in it. Or a whole bowl of green all by itself. Broccoli rabe is my first go-to green. I love Swiss chard, too. String beans. Escarole. Dandelion. And even romaine for a salad.

Then there’s asparagus. What an unusual animal. No other green quite like it. A tall, completely edible (almost), stalk. Ever see how they grow? They rise from the earth like mini-skyscrapers (yet I’m sure they have no interest in going any higher than your knee and even that’s “stretching” it). And, yes, ancient people loved them, too. There’s a recipe for asparagus from Apicius (Roman Empire gourmand with a fondness for recording recipes…thank you!): “…immerse in boiling water backwards,” which reminds me there is even cookware made especially for cooking asparagus (I’ve never used any). Wikipedia just told me that Romans would even freeze asparagus up in the snowy Alps so they’d have plenty for the Feast of Epicurus (no, not the website).

I make asparagus a million different ways. They cook so fast so they pop up as the green at the table often. Here’s one way that gets you asparagus PLUS 3 flavors (1. garlic 2. lemon 3. parmigiano) all in one.

First: peel and slice (thinly) 3-4 cloves of garlic. Heat a little olive oil in a small sauté pan. Add the garlic slices. Sauté till they become deep brown. You’ll be doing what everyone always says “DON’T do.” Cooking garlic to dark brown. Trust me. It becomes chewy and yummy, not bitter. Lift garlic out of oil with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Don’t throw out the oil.

Rinse and dry a lemon. Cut lemon into 1/4-inch tiny pieces. Peel and all.

Line a sheet pan with foil and drizzle a little olive oil over it. Snap the woody ends off the asparagus (or cut them all off in one fell swoop). Lay out the asparagus on the sheet pan in one layer.  Drizzle more olive oil (don’t forget the garlic oil). Sprinkle more salt. And a little pepper. Sprinkle lemon pieces.

Roast in 400 degree oven for about 15 minutes until tender or crisp-tender. Transfer asparagus and lemon pieces to serving plate and sprinkle golden garlic. Toss to combine. Add a dusting of about 1/4 cup of grated parmigiano.

Oh. Yeah. Enjoy.

About 15 minutes later witness the great mystery that’s been observed since early man. Asparagus pea (yes, I just spelled that wrong. Just couldn’t say the other word around food).