Some Favorite Pals: Strawberries & Cream & Cake

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake

Oh, tiny dessert, at last I’ve found you (sung to “Sweet Mystery of Life”).

Why do I like tiny desserts so much? My eye just always goes for the miniature. I love the detail. The care. It doesn’t feel overwhelming. I like small bites. (Remember YEARS ago the movie…I think it was called “Gemini”…and the commercial would always isolate the moment when one character is wolfing down a plate of food and another character watches in disgust yelling: “Take human bites!”)

That’s what I like: human bites. Did you ever get a salad in a restaurant and the leaves are the side of your face? So now you have use a fork and knife and get it into pieces you can fit in your mouth. What’s wrong with serving a salad someone can actually eat with a fork?

Same with wine pours. I’ve spent a lot of time in Italy. Nowhere have I found anyone to fill a glass of wine…or fill it to 3/4…odd to see even 2/3 full. A few swallows in the glass. Then pour some more. When someone pours me a too-full glass I get a passing feeling of almost drowning. Too much liquid to comprehend. Sip human sips!

But back to desserts. I never even ate desserts until the last few years. And so I naturally love the little desserts. Pastries, cupcakes, cookies, and slim slices of cake and tarts.

Strawberry Yogurt-Shortcake? Let’s make ’em small. And this isn’t really a shortcake. I use the word to evoke the traditional sweet of strawberry-short-cake. But this is a pleasant surprise of a taste that gives you what you expect and then adds more yumminess.

Mix 2 cups of sliced strawberries with a couple of teaspoons of sugar. Let sit at room temperature for about an hour. Brings out the juices.

In a medium mixing bowl whisk together 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, healthy pinch of salt and 3 tablespoons sugar. Cut a cold stick of unsalted butter (8 tablespoons) into chunky dice. Add it to flour mixture and using a pastry cutter or 2 knives, cut butter into small or pea-sized pieces. Make a well in the center and pour in a very generous 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt and 1 large egg. Mix until just combined well.

Knead dough gently on a lightly-floured surface, then pat into a ½ -inch to 1-inch thick circle. Using a biscuit cutter, cut out circles and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Reform leftover dough into a disk and cut out more until all the dough is used. Sprinkle the tops with sugar. Bake for about 12-15 minutes in a 400 degree oven until golden. Let them cool.

Add 1 cup cream to a medium mixing bowl. Beat until soft peaks form, add 1 tablespoon of sugar and a drop of vanilla. Beat till stiffer peaks form.

Cut cooled cakes in half horizontally. Add a layer of cream to the bottom half and a layer of sliced strawberries. Top with top half. Add a small dollop of cream to top, and place a slice of strawberry in the cream.

These cakes have a soft consistency with a little chew-bite. The flavor & texture the yogurt brings is perfect for the addition of strawberries and cream.

Strawberries and cream.

Such a perfect pair, you can picture them hand in hand skipping down the lane. Seems a dessert deserving of a Proust-memory-zapping experience. That perfect pair leads us groping around with closed eyes in the days of our childhood. Ah! Here’s Buster, my teddy bear. And here’s my little white furniture desk that my mom painted with a few delicate pink and red flowers. And here’s my strawberries and cream…in a bowl…held by my small hands.

Strawberries & Cream Yogurt Cake

Strawberries & Cream Yogurt Cake

 

My little cauli-flower (in Italian: cavolfiore)

Roasted cauliflower

Roasted cauliflower

A lot of people are running away from white foods. White bread, white potatoes, white rice…white flour in general. But not white cauliflower.

Oh, that smooth head of tight-woven flowerets. There’s something satisfying about even holding a cauliflower. It has some nice heft to it. It’s got those thick real-farm-feel leaves (even tho we cut them out and throw them away)…cauliflower just feels important. When you pick it up from the produce shelf in the supermarket you’re ticking off another check in the healthy food column of your diet. You kinda pat yourself on the back for choosing it.

And yes, you should! Cauliflower has: carotenoids, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, omega-3, vitamin K, its anti-inflammatory, detoxifies, and studies call it a disease-preventing food.

Years ago, I used to steam florets and then pour something creamy or buttery on top. Now I’m hooked on roasting it. And adding olives. And olive oil. And salt & pepper. And that’s it. But my favorite part is how I cut it. After removing the impressive stems and leaves, I cut the head in half, then in quarters. I make slices of each quarter as thin as I can. Each slice looks like a cross-section of cauliflower. Like some scientific study in cauliflower anatomy.

Cauliflower anataomy

Cauliflower anatomy

Lay the slices out on a foil-lined, lightly oiled sheet pan. sprinkle olives (I often use sliced kalamata), drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle salt & pepper generously.

Cauliflower ready to roast

Cauliflower ready to roast

Roast in 400-degree oven for about 20 minutes until tender. Leave in longer and get some browning going.

Roasted cauliflower

Roasted cauliflower

You’re gonna love this.

Cauliflower: ready to eat

Cauliflower: ready to eat

Would you like a little chocolate tart?

 

Chocolate Tarts in pan

Chocolate Tarts in pan

Whoa. What a blast in class tonight. We were cookin’ with gas even tho I have an electric stove top. But we knew what we were doing. It was like a little tornado in the kitchen. Spinning energy that stirred up every dish with friendly hot-happy enthusiasm. Oh yeah. Thank you great cooks who come cook with me!

Amidst the black pepper-infused fresh fettuccine (we thought we had over-peppered the pasta dough, but, oh, no, it was peppery and beautiful), and the veal stew with artichokes & white wine, and the escarole sautéed with garlic and dried cranberries, were the little charmers that made it out of the oven with modest sweetness and then wowed us when we crowned them with whipped cream and orange zest. Yay, dessert, we would never desert you. Little chocolate tarts …we bow to your genius.

How to? Easy. (I’m always interested in that special kind of easy that creates wonders.) (The kind I’ve seen over and over in Italian kitchens where the simple is the sublime.) (That’s my goal.) (Always.)

For the Crust:

3/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon sugar

pinch salt

1/2 stick cold butter (4 tablespoons), cut into small cubes

1/8 cup ice-cold white wine (or a bit more if needed)

Pulse dry ingredients in a food processor. Add butter, pulse till broken up but still with big chunks. Add wine. Pulse till it comes together in a ball of dough. Press dough into a flat, thick disk. Wrap in plastic. Refrigerate 1 hour.

Roll out dough. Cut 3.5 to 4 inch circles. Fit dough gently into medium cupcake tin cups. Add some parchment in each, fill with dried beans, blind bake for 12 minutes in 375 degree oven. Remove parchment and beans.

For the Filling:

Heat 2/3 cup heavy cream in a small saucepan. When hot add 4 oz. bittersweet chocolate, 1/2 teaspoon each: vanilla extract, orange extract, instant espresso powder. Whisk smooth. Beat an egg in a small bowl. Add a couple teaspoons of hot chocolate mixture to temper, whisk in. Then add egg to chocolate mixture and whisk till smooth.

Spoon filling into crusts. Bake for 10 minutes.

IMG_5053

When cool. Beat 1/2 cup heavy cream into whipped cream (with 1/2 teaspoon of sugar). Add a dollop to each tart. Sprinkle with some orange zest.

Chocolate Tarts w Cream

Chocolate Tarts w Cream

Try eating these with a fork in dainty forkfuls. Or by hand, just bite into them (with dainty bites). Or if you’re really feeling ambitious, pretend you’re on the Flintstones where any bite is a big one and munch the whole thing at once.

(It’s all a matter of style.)

Chocolate Tarts w Whipped Cream

Chocolate Tarts w Whipped Cream

 

Is it a class or a dinner party?

Well, both.

pasta-making

pasta-making

When I hold a cooking class I always feel like I’m hosting a dinner party.

A dinner party where everyone cooks.

And, of course, everyone eats.

We’re all in the kitchen.

cooking class

cooking class

Someone is chopping, someone sautéing, someone zesting, someone stirring,

someone seasoning…we’re all busy.

students whip perfect egg whites

students whip perfect egg whites

Chatting, laughing, learning about each other’s lives as we put together each dish…

in the kitchen

in the kitchen

…as we crank the handle on the pasta machine…

making fettuccine

making fettuccine

…as we teach our fingers to shape orecchiette and farfalle.

busy in the kitchen

Chef Paulette busy in the kitchen

Roll ropes of gnocchi. Roll out pliable pastry dough.

 

pastry

pastry

And any number of small and big tasks that go into making a great dinner.

And then we eat.

Yum!

Yum!

 

If Music Be the Food of…..

Music. It has a way of being part of our deeper selves. Music seems to find its way to our core. It leaves imprint and memories there. Music we heard as children, or teenagers, once heard again, can zap us back to that earlier moment, that earlier self.

When I was a baby, my parents tell me, my eyes would well up whenever the Bacarole from the Tales of Hoffmann played.  In that instance it could not have been a memory tug. Where did that reaction come from? I still cry when I hear that music. It overwhelms me with beauty. I just found this wonderful version on YouTube sung by soprano Anna Netrebko & mezzo-soprano Elīna Garanča. Have a listen. I wonder how it sounds to you.

 

I’ve heard stories about my dad as a boy hiding under the ironing board while his mother ironed and sang opera arias. It was a memory he cherished. He also stood in line to get into the Metropolitan Opera House in NYC with his dad. My parents both loved music. My mom was a frequent fan at Frank Sinatra concerts. And my mom and dad met dancing on roller skates at the local rink in Brooklyn.

Music may be the food of love (as Shakespeare wisely educated us), but it is the food of food, too! My classes always have a music soundtrack playing in the background. The room, the kitchen, floats with more life when music is invited as well.

And, while we’re on the subject, memories of taste are just as strong, if not stronger, for transporting us to other moments in our lives. Ever have that experience? You taste something you haven’t had in a while and it immediately reminds you of a place, a person, a you of longer ago.

Our senses are wise companions. Let’s enjoy what they bring us.

Mom and me.

Mom and me.

Chocolate. Crispy. Easy. Oh yes.

Crispy Chocolate Pastries

Crispy Chocolate Pastries

Really. I never used to like sweets. I could down a whole loaf of bread before even looking at a Danish.

But all that has changed. Somewhere over the last few years sweets have lured me in. It probably has something to do with the cooking classes I teach. I like to include a dessert in each menu if possible. So I began experimenting with cakes, pastries, tarts, pies. Free form, in French pans, mini-treats in cupcake tins. I’ve discovered that the possibilities for baked sweets are endless. A frontier strewn with history and constant invention. I’m now on the trail and inexhaustibly interested!

Of course, easy is always a goal. I love easy with spectacular results. That’s what you’ve got here with those unassuming mini-pastries in the picture above. Here’s how it goes (Filo dough. Filo dough makes these crispy):

12 sheets filo dough

1 stick butter, melted

2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup powdered sugar

Lay the filo sheets flat on a clean work surface. Cut them lengthwise into 3 columns. Lay out one strip of dough and brush with butter.  Lay another strip on top and brush with butter. Lay a third on top and brush with butter. Place about a tablespoon of chocolate chips at the lower end of the 3-layer strip. Fold over one corner over the chips to cover them, then continue folding like a flag until you have a completed triangle. Fold over the dough edge at the top and brush with butter to seal.

Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and brush top with butter. Repeat with the rest of the dough and chocolate. Makes a dozen.

Bake for 20-25 minutes in a 400 degree oven until golden. Serve warm or at room temp. Dust with powdered sugar.

Yes, the chocolate melts. Yes, you bite into light, flaky, crispiness. And then get the prize melted chocolate. Invite people to share these with you or you will eat them all. Addictive.

 

Recipe for Shrimp & Spinach Cannelloni

 

Cannelloni ingredients

Cannelloni ingredients

Here’s the recipe for the Shrimp Cannelloni. It’s a bit more involved than I usually get, but it’s worth the journey. Make it on a day when you can relax and have fun with it (or involve friends, family, or kids!).  Let me know if you have any questions about the recipe or process.

Buon Appetito!

Shrimp & Spinach-Stuffed Cannelloni 

For the Tomato Sauce:

1 28-oz can plum tomatoes

1 small onion, sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled

drizzle of olive oil

2-3 sprigs of parsley

salt & pepper to taste

¼ cup cream

For the Pasta:

2 cups flour

¼ teaspoon salt

3 eggs, lightly beaten

For the filling:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 lb. shrimp, shelled, deveined, each shrimp cut into 3 or 4 pieces

3 tablespoons brandy

1 small onion, minced

2 celery stalks, minced

9 ounces spinach, cooked and minced (or thawed frozen spinach), well-drained

2 cups besciamella sauce (see below)

1 cup mozzarella, shredded

¼ cup parmigiano

For the Besciamella sauce:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

pinch nutmeg

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F

Make the tomato sauce:

Drain and the canned tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Drizzle olive oil on a baking sheet. Add plum tomatoes from can, onion, garlic, parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Spread mixture out. Bake in a hot oven until simmering and caramelized—about 20-30 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor and pulse sauce until blended. Stir in the reserved tomato liquid. Stir in the cream. Adjust for seasoning.

Make the pasta:

Whisk the flour and salt in a large bowl. Create a “well” in the middle of the flour and add the eggs. Using a fork slowly mix the flour into the egg, until the dough comes together. Press dough together to make a rough ball. Gather the dough and knead on a lightly floured surface. If it’s too sticky add a little flour. Knead for about 5 minutes until smooth. Shape into a ball and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest at room temp for 30 minutes.

Cut the dough into four pieces. Work with one piece at a time and keep the other pieces covered in plastic wrap. Flatten the dough into a rough rectangle, and roll through the pasta machine, changing the numbers from thick to thinner one at a time until you reach the setting before the last. Lay the sheet on a table and cut it into rough squares approximately 4 inches wide. Repeat with the rest of the dough.

Heat water in a pasta pot until boiling. Add salt. Boil pasta sheets until al dente then remove and rinse under cool water.

Make: the Besciamella sauce:

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the flour and whisk until flour is cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and whisk. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Simmer over medium heat, whisking, until thickened. Allow to cool.

Make the Shrimp filling:

Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet. When hot, toss in the shrimp. Season with salt. Cook a minute or two until hot, then add the brandy and let evaporate. Take shrimp out with slotted spoon and reserve. Add the onion and celery. Cook until softened. Take mixture off the heat to cool. In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the the onion and celery, spinach, shrimp, mozzarella, besciamella sauce, parsley, . Season with salt & pepper.

Make the Cannelloni:

Lay some paper towels on a work surface and lay out the pasta sheets on top. Add 2-3 tablespoons of the shrimp filling on one of the short edges of a pasta sheet. Roll up to form the cannelloni. Repeat with the rest of the pasta and filling.

In a casserole dish spoon some of the tomato sauce, Line up the cannelloni in the dish seam side down. Spoon tomato sauce over the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Bake for 40 minutes until golden. Serve warm.

NOTE: In picture below we had some extra besciamella sauce left so we drizzled it on top of the cannelloni before baking.

 

time to eat the cannelloni!

time to eat the cannelloni!

 

 

Fresh Pasta Cannelloni Stuffed w Spinach & Shrimp

cannelloni stuffed with shrimp & spinach

cannelloni stuffed with shrimp & spinach

Wednesday night’s class was a knockout!

Here are some pix…this is a delicious dish. Let me know if you’d like the recipe!

Cannelloni ingredients

Cannelloni ingredients

great cooks in my kitchen rolling up the cannelloni

great cooks in my kitchen rolling up the cannelloni

cannelloni almost ready to bake!

cannelloni almost ready to bake!

time to eat the cannelloni!

time to eat the cannelloni!

Frittata. The Chameleon in the Kitchen.

mushrooms and tomato

mushrooms and tomato

They say accessories make the outfit. Well, how would you accessorize eggs?

I start with what’s in the refrigerator. OR I see what’s in the refrigerator and think: “that would make a great frittata.”

So to accessorize my eggs I’d sometimes choose mushrooms, or potatoes, or peppers, or tomatoes, or leftover pasta, or herbs and onion. Or all of that.

Today the chameleon took on the color of tomato and mushroom. And eventually well-goldened egg.

Mushroom Tomato Frittata

Mushroom Tomato Frittata

And even tho this chameleon couldn’t blend so as to disappear against the background of the kitchen, it, nonetheless, looked…splendid.

I started by heating some olive oil in a stainless sauté pan. Added some sliced mushrooms…

sautéing mushrooms

sautéing mushrooms

…cooked till softened…

cooked mushrooms

cooked mushrooms

…cracked 4 eggs and whisked with parmigiano and salt and pepper…

whisking egg with parmigiano

whisking egg with parmigiano

…put eggs in the pan with mushrooms…….added tomato slices. Cooked over medium heat until bottom was set…

tomatoes in frittata

tomatoes in frittata

…then put under broiler for 3-5 minutes until golden….

cooked frittata

cooked frittata

DON’T FORGET THE HANDLE ON THE SAUTE PAN IS OVEN-HOT….when you take it out use a potholder and then leave the potholder on the handle to REMIND yourself it’s hot!

Loosen frittata from pan and slide onto a serving dish. Cut into wedges. Hot or room temp (even cold). Yay. Yum.

frittata serving

frittata serving

Looking for a little heat?

aleppo pepper

aleppo pepper

Pepperoncino, crushed red pepper flakes, used to be my go-to heat for cooking. I never used a lot of it. I’m not a big heat fan. But I look for heat-spices to lift a dish — give it a boost — not really wanting to burn the tongue in any way, but have an echo of flavor ringing.

Then I discovered aleppo pepper. I feel like aleppo pepper was made just for me! Not as hot as red pepper flakes, nor cayenne. If you sprinkle enough of it it’ll fire up your mouth, but a moderate or small amount gives the spark, hit, umph, that I’m often looking for in a dish. Tomato sauce, ravioli fillings (ricotta calls out for a lift), meat braises.

From what I understand it’s a Syrian (you’ve heard of the terrible destruction going on in the city of Aleppo, Syria) or Turkish spice. I can only find it at Penzeys Spices. They have an online catalogue (and print catalogue) of any spice, extract, dried herb you can imagine. And their aleppo pepper is perfect!

Here’s Penzeys website: Penzeys Spices  …get their print catalogue, too, it makes for delightful slow reading about spices. They source from all over the world.

Once you have this spice on your shelf you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it!

Penzeys aleppo pepper

Penzeys aleppo pepper