Braciole – Recipe & Lore

CYOD4587.jpg

Braciole – before and after

When I was around 6 years old, my best friend, Franny Toubail, from across the street (in the Bensonhurst neighborhood of Brooklyn), would sometimes come for dinner. She wasn’t always familiar with the food my mom cooked. I remember one dinner where veal cutlets were a revelation for her. And that was a revelation for me. Not everyone eats veal cutlets?

No. Not everyone does. A lot of Italians in Brooklyn do.

Same with braciole (pronounced: brah-szhol). For the early part of my life I assumed braciole was simmering in all kitchens on the block. Not so. Not everyone knows braciole. Maybe you don’t either. May I introduce you?

It seems its name is more of an Italian-American concoction. The same dish is called involtini in Italy. But there’s some connection. Braciola in Italy is often thin slices of sautéed beef. And thin slices of beef is where braciole starts.

Thin slices of beef are rolled up like a jelly roll with stuffing inside, tied together, or toothpick-ed closed, browned and then braised in tomato sauce.

IMG_4696.jpg

braciole assembly line in one of my classes

What’s the filling? Varies widely with each family. What kind of beef? This changes, too. With some cuts, the braciole needs to braised 2-3 hours, with others, the braciole becomes tender enough within an hour.

My mom’s stuffing was always, simply, breadcrumb, grated cheese, parsley, salt, pepper, a drizzle of olive oil. They are delicious this way. Other people add meats, more cheeses, raisins, nuts, even hard-boiled egg slices.

The recent craze for braciole in my family was inspired by a new cut of meat we found. My mom was the experimenter and whoa! what great results.

I’m gonna tell you where to get this cut of meat, but you have to promise me you won’t tell anyone else because I don’t want to get to the store and find it’s all sold out! First off, you have to shop at Aldi. In general they have very reliable meats, but look for the package that says: “thin sliced sirloin tip” and the sign on the shelf says” “for carne asada.” Yes, it’s for carne asada, but what they don’t say: IT’S PERFECT FOR BRACIOLE!

The package looks like a long thick piece of beef, maybe like a London broil, but there are 4 long thin slices piled in there. (If you can’t get Aldi’s perfect-for-braciole meat, then try thin sliced sirloin tip from someone else, or top round, or sirloin, all thin-sliced, but know that it’s this Aldi cut that cooks faster.)

Lay a slice on your work surface so that the length is parallel to your table edge.  Cut it right in half down the middle. You’re gonna layer each half with filling and roll it up away from you– you want the grain of the meat to be parallel to the table edge, too, so that when you cut across later, you’re cutting across the grain.

I’ve upped the ante with my “family” stuffing by ripping or cutting salami and/or prosciutto into small pieces. In addition to the grated parmigiano, I add some shredded asiago. Fresh parsley leaves, sprinkling of breadcrumb (I prefer panko), salt & pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and that’s it. That’s enough — it’s great.

IMG_4701.jpg

Roll them as tightly as possible. Tie them tightly in 4-5 places with kitchen string.

IMG_4699

Sauté in hot oil until browned on all sides.

 

Make a simple tomato sauce and when braciole is browned, add it to sauce and simmer for about an hour (or two hours with the non-Aldi cuts of meat) until the meat cuts easily and is tender.

 

Snip off the strings, cut into pinwheel slices, serve with some sauce spooned on top. Use rest of sauce for pasta!

Let me know how it goes. I’m open to questions. It seems tricky but it’s not. It’s easy and packs so much flavor. YUUUUUUUUM.

Beef Braciole – Rolled Stuffed Beef in Tomato Sauce (serves 4-5)

1 1/2 lbs. beef sirloin tip (cut into about 4 long thin slices) (or thin round steak)

1/2 lb. sliced salami, cut into small pieces

1 cup shredded asiago cheese

1 cup grated parmigiano

1 cup panko

1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves, rough chopped

salt & pepper to taste

olive oil for drizzling & sautéing

kitchen twine

If the slices are very long, cut the slices so they are about 4-6 inches wide. Lay a slice on a work surface. Season with salt & pepper. Sprinkle a few salami pieces. Sprinkle some panko breadcrumbs to lightly cover. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. Sprinkle with shredded asiago, grated parmigiano, and a few parsley leaves. Start at one end and roll as tightly as possible in a jelly-roll style. Make sure the grain of the meat is lined up with the length of the roll and not “across it.” (i.e. parallel to the rolled direction.)

Cut several 6-7-inch lengths of string. Tie strings around the roll, each about an inch apart, making a knot at each tie and cutting off most of the excess (leave some of the excess knot for grabbing later to cut string off).

Heat 2-3 tablespoons of oil in a medium sauté pan. When hot, season the rolls with salt and place in the oil. Brown until golden brown on at least 2 sides or more. Add to tomato sauce and simmer at a low bubble for about 45 minutes – 1 hour. Remove from sauce. When cooled a little, cut off string. Slice across into thick “pinwheels” about an inch wide. Spoon on some tomato sauce. Serve.

Quick Tomato Sauce

2-3 tablespoons of olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and diced

1/4 dry white wine

1 28-oz can of crushed tomatoes

1 15-oz can of crushed tomatoes

salt & pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and cook until softened. Add the wine, let evaporate. Add tomatoes. Stir and season with salt & pepper. Simmer for about 15-20 minutes.

IMG_4667.JPG

finished braciole

Nashville Favs: A Short Current Roundup

Broadway Nashville

Broadway, Nashville

I’m always running around town. Usually for food. (Will run for food.) Here’s some of my usual stops these days. This list, of course, changes. Six months from now, the frequent-stop list may be different, but today’s favorites will still be favorites. This is a mix of shops and restaurants. Enjoy the tastes found at all. YUM!

Little Gourmand in Green Hills

photo compliments of Little Gourmand

photo courtesy of Little Gourmand

Just entering this charming, entrancing store is reason for a visit. The shelves are full of imports from France: mustards, pates, salts, cookies, beautiful kitchen towels, cheese plates & knives. The freezer is full of imported baguettes, croissants, pane au chocolat. You can float through the aisles and be instantly transported. Guenievre Milliner is the delightful French proprietor, who bakes fresh croissants & pan au chocolate every Saturday morning. Get there early. They fly into the mouths of knowing pastry lovers. (I even hesitate to tell you about it. I want mine!) You can sit at one of the lovely cafe tables and sip an espresso, too. For lunch, yum-full baguette sandwiches!

Jim ‘n Nick’s in West Nashville & Cool Springs

photo courtesy of Jim 'n Nick's

photo courtesy of Jim ‘n Nick’s

I’m lucky to have Jim n’ Nick’s BBQ right in the neighborhood. To be honest, we used to go there a lot. But then Martin’s opened and we ran cross town to Martin’s when the BBQ taste bud was screaming for satisfaction. A few months ago we said, “let’s just go here. it’s in the nab.” Well. We think we have a new favorite. At Jim n’ Nick’s you sit at a table, the server serves you, they bring a basket of those amazing corn biscuits, and the BBQ? Well, as I said, I think have a new favorite. I love the baby backs. My mom the spare ribs. My sister likes both equally. Duane goes for the hot links. And the sides are stellar. Now those BBQ taste buds scream more often.

El Amigo Tacos on Nolensville Road near Elysian Fields

El Amigo on Nolensville Road

El Amigo on Nolensville Road

About 5 years ago, I ran a Nashville tours business with Annakate Tefft Ross. We rented a van and brought Nashvillians on all kinds of food adventures. On our very first tour we tooled up and down Nolensville Road tasting cuisines of the world. Our favorite stop for authentic Mexican tacos was always El Amigo. Duane and I still go there for, usually, a Sunday lunch. The tacos are SUPERB (and only cost $1.50, so get many). The sunny dining room, and the busy kitchen, fills what used to be a gas station. Do not let that deter you. Enjoy!

El Amigo chorizo tacos

El Amigo chorizo tacos

Lazzaroli Pasta Shop in Germantown

photo compliments of Lazzaroli Pasta Shop

photo compliments of Lazzaroli Pasta Shop

It’s the bee’s knees of an Italian food grocery store. But the real star of the show is Tom Lazzaro’s fresh made ravioli and pasta. Ravioli filled with such a variety you’ll stand at the freezer pondering and deciding for a good hour. And then pull several boxes to take home. We last tried the sausage & asiago. Yowsa. Wolfed down to the tune of Mmmmmm & Whoaaaaa. But the gorgonzola still rings in my taste memory. He makes several sauces to bring home, too. He makes fresh mozzarella every Saturday morning. Plus the shelves are full of Italian import wonders. And the refrigerator is stocked with Benton’s bacon and Italian specialty salumi.

Aldi supermarkets, several locations

Photo compliments of Aldi

Photo compliments of Aldi

Yes. A supermarket. I’ve heard so many things about Aldi, but hadn’t been. I also heard it has ties to Trader Joe’s (see my Trader Joe’s posts). Which gives it some pretty high marks. It’s supposedly a German-owned chain. When you walk in you feel shades of a European supermarket. How it’s laid out. How you get a cart (put in a quarter to release the cart, bring it back and pop out your quarter at the end. just like in Italy, only there you use a euro). You need to bring your own bags or they will sell you plastic bags (just like in Italy. cheap bags, but still better to bring your own). Lots of German imported candies, chocolate, etc. Great deals on produce. And meat (my mom says the meat looks exactly like the cuts and quality from Trader Joe’s). And then: sometimes shoes. pots & pans. grilling utensils. I bought a 2-burner cooktop for demonstrations. It’s worth the trip. You’ll exit with bagfuls. And feel ike you’re on a food exploration expedition.

I’m always on the prowl for the new (or new to me). Letting that “gatherer” ancient gene kick in. Stay tuned for more finds!